The Coop

My coop is very simple. I used recycled wood for the walls, have only a dirt floor, and got tree branches from the beach for the perches. But I had to buy corrugated plastic (or metal) for the roof, pine shavings, and feeders. But of course each coop, if custom built, will have to be somewhat different from the other. But this can be a general guide if your planning to build a coop:

The purpose of the coop is for protection from predators and weather, laying eggs, and a place to sleep at night. Here is what to consider:
-Predator proof. My coop is made of wood with a plastic (but I like metal better) corrugated roof. Mine just has a dirt floor, with wood boards placed about a foot deep underground so predators won't be able to dig. Or you can place chicken wire on the floor and cover with dirt or pine shavings. Or you can build an elevated wood floor, which would probably be safest, but for me, it's easier to clean a dirt floor than a wood floor.
-Ventilation. I have small wire windows (with shutters) around the coop sides for air to flow through. And I open the human door to the coop during the day when I let them roam around in our fenced in orchard. I use pine shavings to cover the poop from the night before, to decrease smell and flies.
-Doors.  The hens have a little doggy door so they can go in and out of the coop/run as they please. And I have a door people can walk through for both coop and run. Both doors have a secure latch that predators can't open.
-Perches. I have one perch 2 feet above the ground and another around 4 feet above the ground perpendicular to it. I would say 10 inches of length for each chicken on the perch. So you may need multiple perches to have enough room for the chickens. I use round natural branches for the perches that are around 2-3 inches in diameter. Or you can use cut wood. Have it be between 2-3 inches in diameter also, and a good inch or two deep, and sand it to prevent splinters.
-Nesting boxes. I have one nesting box for every 3 hens. My boxes are 14"L x 14"W x 14"H. I basically cut out part of the wall of the coop and attached one row of 3 nesting boxes (already made). The chickens have access to them, without the boxes taking up room in the coop. The roof for the boxes flips up so you can easily collect the eggs from the outside, and latches when closed to be predator proof. You can stack rows of nesting boxes on top of each other, making the bottom row around 1 foot above the ground, and the rows above need a perch attached so they can easily fly up and get in the box. I use plenty of pine shavings in the boxes, and replace shavings every month or so. (Do not use hay, it attracts mites and lice, I speak from experience). 
-Feeders. You will need one pair of feeders for every 10-12 chickens. I have attached mine to a chain hooked on the ceiling. The feeders are raised off the ground up to the chicken's chest. I thoroughly clean and scrub the water feeder every time I need to refill it. (You can find chicken feeders at Island Seed and Feed, or La Cumbre Feed).
-Size. My coop is 6 feet x 5 feet. This will hold up to 10 chickens. You can add a foot in length and width for every 4 more chickens added. And add another nesting box too.

Ordering kit coops online can be risky, so I definitely recommend custom making your own coop, which isn't necessarily more expensive. It actually can save you money because you can make a sturdy, thrifty, and simple coop that will work perfect for you and your chickens. If you need help you can contact me and I would love to help you create your own coop!